The starting point for most of the Pro Series glazes is 10 oz – 12 oz (300 ml – 355 ml) of water for every 1 lb of dry glaze.

Some glazes require more or less water per pound, so we recommend starting with 10 oz and adding water until reaching the correct specific gravity.

If the specific gravity is correct but the slurry is too thick, adjust with Darvan. If the glaze is too thin, add a water/Epsom‑salt solution to thicken.

Mix thoroughly using a mechanical mixer by adding dry powder to water and sieve with a 60‑ or 80‑mesh screen.

Values are based on 1–2 second dips on Cone 06 bisque Laguna B‑Mix 5, Laguna MC‑60 @ Cone 6, and Standard 105 @ Cone 06. Adjust as needed.

Always mix in a well‑ventilated area or wear a NIOSH‑approved respirator. Add powder to water slowly.

The Ceramic Shop’s Crystalline series is formulated for Cone 6 porcelain and stoneware with minimal run or crazing. Thicker applications may run. Always test fit.

Apply evenly by dipping or thin for spraying. Thin areas may go matte; thick areas may run. Use layering to control this effect.

The thick parts will grow zinc‑silicate crystals using the provided firing schedule. Fire to Cone 6 and drop quickly to Cone 04 and hold to grow crystals. Adjust as needed.

These glazes perform best on vertical surfaces. Avoid pooling on flat areas.

Crazing

What is it?
Tiny cracks in the glaze surface visible to the eye but not the touch, often revealed through staining.

Crazing is due to a mismatch in the thermal expansion of the glaze and clay body. It is not caused by cooling speed.

If it’s not visible at first, it may still develop over time or with thermal stress if the clay and glaze aren’t a good fit.

How to fix it:
This is a chemistry issue. Altering either the glaze or clay body composition through testing is the best fix.

If you can’t adjust a commercial glaze, try a different clay body. Many manufacturers list which clay bodies they test with—these are good starting points.